Duck First Aid Kit & Duck Health

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You may have heard the best defense is a good offense.  Well the best way to treat a sick duck is to try and keep it healthy.  Providing plenty of fresh, dry feed (not allowing it to get soggy & moldy), giving them lots of clean water to drink & swim in, and keeping their house & yard clean and in good repair is the easiest way to have healthy, happy ducks.  But even healthy ducks will sometimes get sick, or an injury will require medical attention.  A well stocked first aid kit is something every responsible animal owner should have.  What items might your duck friends need in an emergency?  You will find many of the items that are helpful in a chicken first aid kit (click here to read about my chicken first aid kit) will also pull double duty for your ducks if you keep both types of poultry.

Hospital Ward – The first thing you want to have handy is a hospital ward for isolating sick birds.  If you can remove the duck from her flock at the first sign of illness, hopefully you can prevent it from spreading.  You’ll want to keep the sick bird at least 30-40 feet away from the flock.  If you have space in your basement, garage, or shed that could be an ideal place to set up your hospital ward.  Our hospital coop is a mini coop we built out of scrap lumber (click here to see how we built it), but an old dog crate would also work.  Anywhere the bird is safe from predators, is somewhere you can keep an eye on her and has amble fresh water & feed would work.

General First Aid Supplies – start by stocking your duck first aid kit with general first aid supplies like disposable gloves, non stick gauze pads, a small dropper or syringe, small scissors, small nail clippers

Missing Feathers – A common injury with female birds, especially in spring, is missing feathers along the back of her head.  During mating, the drake will hold onto the female by the back of her neck/head.  Sometimes a drake will have a favorite female and aggressive over mating can cause a bald spot to form, sometimes there are just too many drakes and not enough females.  You should try to have 3-4 females for every one drake so he can evenly spread out his….”affections”.  If the spot looks tender or is bleeding, you should either separate the effected female or separate the male until the female’s head has healed.  If the skin is bleeding, you can spray the area with Vetericyn.  An anti bacterial gel spray, Vetericyn is used to clean wounds and treat infections.  Vetericyn is safe for almost all animals so it is a really handy product to have on hand for any animal owner.


Foot Wounds – The next most likely injury a duck will receive is to their floppy, webbed feet.  Their feet might be perfect for paddling around a pond, but on land, they can be quite awkward.  If you notice your duck is limping, pick her up and inspect the foot.  She may have stepped on something or otherwise scratched it.  This is another great reason to have Vetericyn on hand.  If it is just a scratch, spray to clean it, pad the area with a gauze pad and wrap with Vetrap.   Vetrap is a self adhering bandage used for animals.  The great part is it sticks to itself, but not to fur & feathers so it doesn’t cause damage when you need to remove it.  If the wound is deeper, you might want to add some antibiotic cream (like Neosporin without pain relief) to the gauze pad before wrapping it.  Do not wrap too tightly, you don’t want to cut off circulation, just keep the wound clean!

Bumblefoot is a staph infection that can be found in both chickens and ducks.  The infection begins as a cut on their foot, as the bird spends her day walking in dirt and poop the cut can get infected.  Left untreated it can eventually lead to blood poisoning and death.  I like to first try treating it by soaking the bird’s foot in warm water to loosen the “kernel” that forms around the infection.  Often after a soak you can wiggle the kernel free.  Occasionally, you may need to use a surgical scalpel to cut it free.  After the kernel is removed, the area should be treated with Neosporin and covered with a gauze pad & Vetrap and changed daily.

If your duck is constantly hurting her foot or won’t keep the Vetrap on, they actually make duck boots for just such an occasion!  Formed like duck feet, they are basically shoes for your duck to wear while her wound is healing.

Eye Issues – Ducks need to have access to fresh, clean water at all times.  The water is not just for drinking and swimming, but they also must have clean water deep enough for them to dip their whole head in so they can keep their mucous membranes moist (click here to read more about Foamy Eye Disease in Ducks).  If your duck develops foamy eye or has other eye irritations, rinse her eyes twice a day with saline solution.

Respiratory Issues – Respiratory problems can arise sometimes hand in hand with foamy eye, or sometimes just on their own like we would catch a common cold.   Separating the sick bird quickly will hopefully stop the spread.   Give her immune system a boost by adding electrolytes to her water; Sav-A-Chick is a popular brand that is easy to find at most feed stores.  Help her breathing by putting a few drops of Vet Rx under her wing before bed.  As she tucks in to sleep the smell will help like a menthol rub will help clear up congestion when you are sick.


Duck First Aid Check List

disposable gloves

non stick gauze pads

a small dropper or syringe

small scissors

small nail clippers



surgical scalpel

Duck Boots

Neosporin without pain relief

saline solution



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  1. Carol L says:

    Just wondering, would this same apply basically for chickens as well? I don’t have either at this time, but plan to have both chickens and ducks and maybe even turkeys soon.
    Thanks for this article!!

  2. Debby Tyler says:

    I have a duck that has been limping. I thought she might have stepped on a burr, but when I look at her foot it doesn’t appear to have anything wrong. She is getting worse and she is having a hard time getting around. She just sits in her pen. Is there something else I should do. We have a pool for them and change it every day. We also have small cement pans(what you mix cement in) around the field. She is free to go where she wants inside the fence. We have geese so they are very protective of her. Suggestions?

    • Liz says:

      If you don’t see any outward injuries like cuts, scraps or scabs (check the bottom of the foot to be sure there isn’t a bumblefoot infection), its likely something internal like a pulled or sprained muscle. I would encourage her to rest it, sounds like she is doing that on her own. You can also add some probiotics to her water. Keeping her pool nice and clean is a good way for her to exercise it in a non strenuous way. I have had several instances of limping ducks and with rest they are usually back up and moving about in a week or two. If it’s been more than that, you might want to see a vet.

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